Textile materials: fabrics (11): wrinkle resistance and pleat retention
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1. Wrinkle resistance of fabric
The ability of a fabric to undergo plastic bending deformation and form wrinkles when it is kneaded and squeezed is called wrinkleability. The ability of a fabric to resist such wrinkles is called wrinkle resistance. Wrinkle resistance usually refers to the degree of recovery after creases are produced under force, called crease (wrinkle) recovery, which affects the appearance and flatness of the fabric.
Main factors affecting the wrinkle resistance of fabrics:
1. Fiber properties
The thicker the fiber, the better the wrinkle recovery; circular cross-section fibers have better wrinkle recovery than irregular-shaped cross-section fibers; longitudinally smooth fibers have better wrinkle resistance than longitudinally rough fibers.
Fiber elasticity is a fundamental key factor in fabric wrinkle resistance. The greater the value, the higher the fabric wrinkle recovery rate.
2. Spinning yarn structure
When the twist of the spun yarn is moderate, the fabric has good wrinkle resistance.
3. Fabric geometry
The thickness of the fabric has a significant impact on the wrinkle recovery rate. Thick fabrics have a better wrinkle recovery rate; knitted fabrics have good elasticity, looseness, and thick texture, so their wrinkle resistance is better than that of woven fabrics. Among the three original structures of woven fabrics, plain fabrics have a higher wrinkle recovery rate. The wrinkle recovery rate of satin fabric is better, and the twill fabric is between the two; as the density, tightness, volume fraction or warp and weft density of the fabric increase, these indicators that express the filling properties of the fabric increase, the tangential direction between the fibers in the fabric increases. The sliding resistance increases, and after the external force is released, the fibers are not easy to move relative to each other, so the crease recovery of the fabric has a downward trend.
4. Environmental conditions
When temperature and humidity increase, fiber materials become more plastic and the friction resistance between fibers will become greater, which will lead to a reduction in the wrinkle resistance of the fabric.
Methods to improve wrinkle resistance: The two basic mechanisms of wrinkles should be followed, namely, high elasticity of fibers and low friction or elastic connection between fibers.
2. Fabric pleat retention
The degree to which the pleats (including embossing and creases) formed by ironing the fabric can retain its shape for a long time after cleaning is called pleat retention.
Main factors affecting pleat retention:
The basic factors that affect the pleat retention of fabrics are the stability of the fiber structure and the stability of the inter-fiber structure after setting.
The better the thermoplasticity of the fiber, the more regular and orderly the structure after heat setting, the stronger the interaction between fiber molecules, and the higher the glass transition temperature of the fiber. The better and more stable the fiber pleats are formed, and the stronger the pleat retention of the fabric.
The stronger the interaction between fibers and yarns, the more stable the structure of the fabric, the smaller the possibility of changes after pleats are produced, and the stronger the pleat retention.
Ironing conditions, such as temperature, pressure and time, have a great impact on the integrity and effectiveness of pleat setting. Experiments show that when the pressure is 6~7kPa and 130~150℃, good pleats can be obtained in 10~30s.
Methods to improve the retention of fabric pleats: Without affecting other properties, a good way is to increase the fabric tightness and the connection between fibers at the pleats.
Fabrics of Textile Materials (11): Wrinkle Resistance and Pleat Retention
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