Textile Materials: Fabrics (13): Pilling of Fabrics
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During the actual wearing and cleaning process, the fabric is constantly subjected to friction, so that the fiber ends on the surface of the fabric are exposed to the fabric, and many hairs appear on the surface of the fabric, which is called “fluffing”; if these hairs cannot be maintained during continued wearing, When they fall off in time, they become entangled with each other and are rolled into many spherical particles, usually becoming “pilling”.
1. The process of fabric pilling
The first stage is fluffing, where the fibers on the surface of the fabric are pulled out of the fabric due to constant friction and produce fluff; the second stage is entanglement, where the fibers that have not fallen off are entangled with each other and intensify the pulling out of the fibers; the third stage is clumping, where the fibers become more entangled. It becomes tighter and tighter, and finally small pellets are formed; the fourth stage is balling, when the fibers connecting the pellets are broken or pulled out; the fifth stage is shedding, where some pellets fall off.
2. Main influencing factors of pilling
Experience shows that fluffing of fabrics is a common phenomenon, while pilling is a special phenomenon. Fabric pilling must meet the following conditions: ① The fiber requires sufficient strength and elongation (high breaking work or toughness) and fatigue resistance; ② The fiber must be soft and easy to bend, deform and form entanglements; ③ There must be enough and sufficient Long protruding hairiness; ④ There must be friction conditions to cause entanglement (not one-way, can be repeated). Any factors that affect these four conditions will affect the pilling of the fabric.
Static and dynamic mechanical properties of fiber: Nylon has high toughness and good fatigue resistance, so it is easy to pill.
The morphology and surface properties of the fiber: The fiber is thick and irregularly shaped, with a large cross-sectional moment of inertia and high bending stiffness, so it is not easy to bend and twist, and the probability of relative contact and friction is low, so it is not easy to pull out and entangle; the surface of the fiber is rough , The friction coefficient is large and there is curl. Although it is not conducive to the fluffing of the fiber, the friction is conducive to the pulling, entanglement and balling after holding. It is a factor that has both benefits and disadvantages.
Hairiness amount and hairiness length: depends on the length of the fiber. Although the fiber that is too short is easy to fluff, it is easy to fall off and not easy to ball; it depends on the structure of the spinning yarn. The twist of the spinning yarn is large, the structure is tight, and the spinning yarn has few thick spots. , less initial hairiness, which is not conducive to the increase of hairiness amount and hairiness length; it depends on the structure of the fabric, if the fabric is loose, there are few interlacing points, the float is long, and the loop length of the knitted fabric is long, it will be beneficial to the amount and length of hair raising. Increase; depending on the finishing of the fabric, it can directly reduce the pilling of the fabric.
3. How to remove fluff and pilling
Active and effective methods to prevent fabric pilling are: reducing the amount of hairiness, controlling the bending stiffness of fibers, and increasing the interaction between fibers in fiber aggregates. Passive but effective methods for removal: reduce fiber toughness and fatigue resistance, accelerate the breakage and shedding of fiber balls; adopt bonding, PU coating and singeing treatments to reduce the generation and initial amount of hairiness.
Fabric Materials (Thirteen): Pilling of Fabrics
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