Textile Materials: Fabrics (5): Structure and Organization of Woven Fabrics
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Woven fabric is a collection of sheet-like spun yarns that are regularly interlaced with warp yarns arranged parallel to the fabric edge or at a certain angle to the fabric edge and weft yarns arranged perpendicular to the fabric edge. And a stable staggered structure is formed by this cross arrangement and the extrusion contact of buckling and lying. Among them, the rise and fall pattern of warp and weft yarns is called “fabric structure”.
1. Basic structure of woven fabric
1. Fabric specifications
The main parameters of fabric specifications are: the length of the fabric, that is, the length of one piece of fabric, referred to as “piece length”; the width of the fabric, that is, the width of the fabric, referred to as “effective width”; the weight of the fabric, that is, the weight of the fabric per square meter Quality, referred to as “square meter weight”; the number of spun yarn characteristics and arrangement density (referred to as warp density and weft density), which are expressed by “characteristic number of warp yarns x number of weft yarns x warp density x weft density”; and fabric structure.
2. Fabric structural parameters
(1) Spinning yarn configuration
The warp and weft spinning yarns of fabrics generally have three configurations: first, the warp and weft yarn special numbers are equal (facilitates production and management); second, the warp yarn special number is smaller than the weft yarn special number (can increase output, which is a common configuration); third, the warp yarn special number is greater than the weft yarn Special number (rarely used, only sometimes used in tire cords, laminates, etc.)
(2) Arrangement density of spinning yarn
The density of spinning yarns refers to the number of spinning yarns per unit length of the fabric. It is generally expressed by the number of spinning yarns in 10cm, and the unit is root/10cm. The so-called warp (weft) density refers to the number of warp (weft) yarns arranged upward in the weft (warp) of the fabric.
(3) Tightness of fabric
The tightness of the fabric refers to the percentage of the projected area of the spinning yarn to the area of the fabric, which is essentially the coverage rate or coverage coefficient of the spinning yarn. There are meridional tightness ET, weft tightness EW and total tightness EZ.
ET=dT/a×100%
EW=dW/b×100%
EZ=ET+EW—ET•EW/ 100
Among them, dT, dW are the diameters (mm) of the warp and weft yarns (threads); a and b are the two adjacent warp and weft yarns (threads) ) average center distance (mm)
(4)Weaving shrinkage
Weaving shrinkage (weaving shrinkage) refers to the difference △l between the length of the spinning yarn l0 used in weaving and the length (width) of the woven fabric l and the length of the spinning yarn used in weaving The ratio of l0 (△l/l0)
(5) Density, thickness and volume fraction of fabric
The density of fabric refers to the mass per unit area of the fabric (g/cm3); the concept of fabric thickness is more complex, including apparent thickness, initial thickness, pressurized thickness, spatial thickness, physical thickness, etc. Due to the repeatability of fabric tissue, the volume fraction of a fabric can be expressed by the volume fraction within a cyclic tissue, that is, the ratio of the total volume of warp and weft yarns in a unit cyclic tissue to the volume of the fabric in a unit cyclic tissue.
(6) Square meter weight of fabric
The square meter weight w (g/m2) of the fabric can be easily obtained through actual measurement:
w=(fabric weight per meter (g/m))/(fabric effective width (cm))×100
(7) Fabric organization and its impact on structure
For organizations with multiple intersecting points, the arrangement and spatial form generated within the tissue cycle are stable and rigid structures; organizations with multiple floating lengths are variable and flexible structures. The former yarn has a large deformation, the intersection point has a strong effect, the fabric is stiff, and it is not easy to shear and deform; the latter has a small yarn deformation, simple misalignment and displacement, and the fabric is soft and easy to shear and deform.
(8) Spinning yarn spatial trajectory
In woven fabrics, the warp and weft yarns exhibit a certain buckling state in the fabric due to their interlacing. The buckling state is the result of spinning yarn to seek small deformation, that is, small internal stress.
2. Fabric texture parameters
The pattern and pattern of warp and weft yarns interlacing with each other in woven fabrics are called fabric texture.
1. Organization point
The weave point refers to the intersection point of warp and weft spinning yarns. When the warp yarn is above the weft yarn, it is a warp weave point; when the weft yarn is above the warp yarn, it is a weft weave point.
2. Organizational cycle
When the arrangement rules of warp and weft points satisfy the cycle at the same time, a single organizational unit that appears repeatedly in the fabric is called a weave cycle or a complete weave.
3. Number of spinning cycles
The number of warp or weft yarns that constitute a weave cycle is called the number of spinning yarn cycles. There are warp yarn loops and weft yarn loops.
4. Organization points and flying numbers
In the fabric weave cycle, the number of spinning threads spaced between corresponding weave points on two adjacent spinning yarns in the same system is called the weave point flying number.
3. Basic organization
The basic organization is the basis of various fabric organizations.The basic structure includes plain weave, twill weave and satin weave, so it is also called ternary weave. The following conditions must be met in the basic weave: the number of warp and weft yarn cycles is equal; the number of weave points is constant; each spinning yarn of one system only intersects with the spinning yarn of another system once within the weave cycle (an interleaving point) .
Fabrics of Textile Materials (V): Structure and Organization of Woven Fabrics
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