Why can suede be raised? How to raise suede
Why can suede be raised? The method of raising suede, then we have to talk about the raw materials for making suede. Suede is woven from superfine fiber island silk, and then goes through the dyeing factory, fiber opening, sanding, dyeing, and shaping. It is made by combing and rolling. Island silk is the fundamental reason why suede can be raised. It is difficult for a clever woman to make a meal without rice. There are many sanding products, but fabrics that do not contain island silk cannot achieve the fuzz of suede no matter how hard they are polished. The effect can be said to be no island silk or suede!
Actually, the island yarn we have been talking about is not a single island yarn, but an island-type composite ultra-fine mixed fiber network yarn, which is formed by merging ordinary island yarn and high shrinkage yarn through network processing. “Island silk”. It is a combination of four concepts: island yarn, composite fiber, mixed fiber and network yarn. For the side of suede that needs to be raised, in the gray fabric weaving process, island silk is used as the raw material. When the island silk floats on the surface of the fabric with a larger floating length, after the fiber opening process in the dyeing factory, the high shrinkage yarn is set. It is released and shrinks, the sea component of the sea island yarn dissolves, and the island fibrils are loosely entangled around the high shrinkage yarn. Island fibrils are composed of ultrafine fibers with very fine fiber diameter and low absolute strength. Therefore, under the same conditions, the island fibrils formed by sea-island silk are more easily broken than other fibers, resulting in many fine and even fluff clusters on the surface of the fabric.
The suede raising method – sanding and brushing process:
The sanding process is generally carried out in the dyeing factory and belongs to suede. The pre-processing stage in the fabric production process is to open the fiber in the dyeing factory and pre-set it (secondary shaping: mainly drying to make the cloth surface smooth. You can also add a certain raising agent to the pre-order. This is also very important. The cloth surface Smoothing can reduce the generation of sanding strips). Sanding is to pass the suede side through the sanding machine. Through the high-speed rotation of the rotating rod wrapped with emery sandpaper, the sandpaper rubs against the fabric to raise the fabric!
New suede sanding machine, this machine is a dry sanding machine, mainly used for sanding woven suede and air layer suede! We can see from the picture that there are several sanding rollers on the sanding machine. The number of sandpaper bound to each sanding roller is different. By adjusting the tension and the speed of the sanding roller, the length of the hair feeling can be controlled. of!
Abrasive leather used in sanding machines
Diamond sand leather used in suede sanding machines. The quality, hardness and mesh size of the sandpaper have a great impact on the sanding effect! There are several types of sandpaper meshes. The larger the mesh number, the finer the sanding effect. Therefore, different velvet feel needs can be controlled by changing the sandpaper on the sanding machine.
Sanding controls the suede feel through the tension, the gravity of the sanding roller, and the speed. This determines that sanding can generally only grind thicker, less elastic, and flatter suede, such as When the four-sided stretch suede is under tension, the width of the suede will shrink greatly, and it is easy to produce fraying strips. This requires another method of raising suede – nap! Napping is achieved through the rapid rotation of the rotating roller covered with steel needles on the napping machine, which is equivalent to the needles pricking the fabric and then lifting it up, thereby achieving the raising effect!
Generally warp knitted suede, stretch suede, softer and thinner suede are all raised using a napping machine. Sometimes, in order to obtain a finer velvet feel, a vat of cloth needs to be naped several times, 8 times or 10 times. Brushing can very well increase the velvet density of suede. For example, if weft suede is only sanded, there will be a serious problem of bottom leakage (the fluff is relatively small, you can look at the rungs on the bottom of the fabric). This can be improved by roughening first and then sanding.
Keywords:
suede suede fleece
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