Which one is more expensive, Yun brocade or Kesi? Are Yun brocade and Kesi the same? What is the difference?

Which one is more expensive, Yun brocade or Kesi? Are Yun brocade and Kesi the same? What is the difference?

Which one is more expensive, Yun brocade or Kesi? Are Yun brocade and Kesi the same? What’s the difference? The tapestry has the warp and weft broken, while the Yun brocade only has the weft broken at the decorative part; Yun brocade is a large flower machine, and two people work together to use jacquard flowers. The silk tapestry is a small silk tapestry machine, and the flowers are made by cutting. In addition, there are many varieties of Yunjin brocade with different weaving methods.

Yunjin is one of the traditional brocades. In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it was used as a palace fabric. There are many government-run weaving bureaus producing it for use in court clothing, rewards, etc. Commodity production began in the late Qing Dynasty, and the name Yunjin came into being in the industry. It was named after its richness and splendor, as brilliant as clouds. In modern times, it is only produced in Nanjing and is often called Nanjing Yunjin. Modern Yunjin brocade has inherited the traditional style of the Ming and Qing Dynasties and developed. The traditional varieties include Zhuanghua, Kujin, Kujin and other categories (see Zhuanghua, Kujin, Kujin), Kujin, Kujin, etc. It was named after it was woven in the Qing Dynasty and imported into the Ministry of Internal Affairs’ satin library, and it is still in use today. The floral fabric is a variety that represents the characteristics and style of Yunjin brocade. The pattern layout is rigorous and solemn, and the pattern shape is concise and general. Most of them are large and full patterns arranged continuously in four directions. There are also large floral patterns that are completely integrated into a single piece and are suitable for the pattern. Fabrics (such as dragon robes, kang mattresses, etc. in the Ming and Qing dynasties) are made of rich and contrasting colors. Gold threads are often used to outline the edges or gold and silver threads are used to decorate the patterns. They are transitioned from white to white or color halo, and the weft tube shuttle is used to dig out the flowers. The decoration of colors, the richness of the fabric, and the shining golden color are the important features that distinguish Yun brocade from other brocades such as Shu brocade and Song brocade. After the founding of the People’s Republic of China, new varieties were created on the basis of traditional varieties, such as Yuhua brocade, Dunhuang brocade, gold and silver brocade, water chestnut brocade, decorative brocade, table rugs, cushions, etc., supplying Mongolian and Tibetan brothers’ costumes, calligraphy and painting decorations, tourist souvenirs, Foreign trade needs.

Nanjing Yunjin is a kind of jacquard silk handicraft. It is the first of the “Three Treasures” of Nanjing crafts and is known as the “Two Famous Brocades” together with Suzhou Kesi. There are as many as eighteen colors of Nanjing Yunjin brocade. The main flower is introduced layer by layer using “color halo”. It is rich and elegant, with solid texture, rich and graceful patterns, rich and solemn colors, and extensive use of gold thread, forming a unique style of splendor and splendor. In the past, Yun brocade was exclusively used by the royal court or as a reward for meritorious officials. Nowadays, in addition to being used as clothing for ethnic minorities, it is also exported abroad to be used as high-end clothing fabrics.

Yunjin brocade has a unique craft. It is weaved using an old-fashioned wooden jacquard machine. It must be completed by two people, the jacquard worker and the weaver. Two people can only produce 5-6 centimeters a day. This process is still unavailable today. Machine replacement. The main feature of Yun brocade is that the flowers vary in color. Observed from different angles, the colors of the flowers on the embroidery are different. Because it was used in royal clothing, Yun brocade often used exquisite materials, spared no expense and strived for excellence in weaving. Yunjin likes to use gold thread, silver thread, copper wire, filament, silk, and various bird and animal feathers to weave Yunjin. For example, the green color on the royal Yunjin embroidery is woven with peacock feathers. Patterns have their own specific meanings. If you want to weave a 78-centimeter-wide brocade, there are 14,000 silk threads on its fabric surface. All flower patterns must be composed of these 14,000 threads. From establishing the warp and weft lines of the silk threads to final weaving, the entire process It’s as complex and arduous as programming a computer.

Kesi The birth of Yunjin should be attributed to Suzhou Kesi. It is actually an accessory derived from Suzhou Kesi. Suzhou’s silk weaving industry originated in the Eastern Wu Dynasty (222-280). At the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty (317-420), General Liu Yu went on the Northern Expedition. After destroying the Qin Dynasty, he moved all the workers in Chang’an to Jiankang (now Nanjing). Suzhou is very close. Therefore, a large number of Suzhou Kesi craftsmen moved to Nanjing. Brocade craftsmen among the hundreds of craftsmen of the Later Qin Dynasty inherited the brocade weaving skills of ethnic minorities in the Han Dynasty, Cao Wei, Western Jin Dynasty and the early Sixteen Kingdoms. In 417, the Eastern Jin Dynasty set up an official office in Jiankang to manage brocade, which was regarded as the official birth of Nanjing Yunjin. Since the Yuan Dynasty, Yun brocade has been used exclusively for royal clothing. In the Qing Dynasty, there was a Jiangning Weaving Department in Nanjing. Cao Yin, the grandfather of Cao Xueqin, the author of “A Dream of Red Mansions”, served as the Jiangning Weaving Department for 20 years.

Keywords:
Yun Brocade Kesi
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