How to make silk cheongsam
How to make silk cheongsam? The production of silk cheongsam piping is a technique frequently used in cheongsam production. The quality of piping directly determines the grade of cheongsam.
There are several main difficulties in making silk cheongsam piping:
1. Silk fabric is easy to slide, and is mostly made in the thin range of 16-30mm, and it is easy to wrinkle during sewing.
2. When there are many layers of piping, how can it be relatively easy to keep the width of each edge consistent to ensure beautiful appearance.
3. Making the cheongsam hem with a 90° hem.
Production steps:
The first thing to do is to prepare the rolling strip (red) and the inlay (bright yellow), generally choose 12-16 mmi Made of silk fabric. Click to view the original image
The finished product is designed according to the design of the rolling strips 0.7cm and the inlays 0.2cm. When cutting, the rolling strips are pre-cut to 1 inch and the inlays are 0.6 inches. The width can be cut and can be changed later.
According to the traditional method, the rolling strip must be cut at a 45° diagonal, and a thick and thin paste should be applied on the back. The thin paste will easily penetrate to the surface and affect the gloss. If it is too thick, the rolling strip will be rigid and lose its elasticity, which is not conducive to production. . For convenience, use thin silk lining for back covering, and pay attention to the alignment of the outer and inner yarns.
Sewing the rolling strips and inserts
Use a pink thread bag elastic thread to sew the alignment mark on the front of the rolling strips, and the width can be customized.
The reverse side of the combination strip
The front side of the combination strip
Next, use an iron to turn out the 0.2cm yellow teeth to ensure that the yellow part is uniform.
Turn over the teeth
After ironing everything, turn it over and trim the yellow strip to a width of 0.85cm
After completing the trimming, the production of the combined strip is complete, and basically the important steps have been completed Half done.
Finished product combination teeth
The next step is to sew the rolling strips and silk fabric to each other. Due to the smooth nature of silk, if the fabric is not processed, the finished product will wrinkle or even lift after sewing, seriously affecting the quality of silk cheongsam.
A woven-lined straight silk panel is pasted on the back of the silk fabric
The woven-lined straight silk panel is more stable, and the width can be 1.2cm or 2cm according to your needs. On the one hand, the function of the welting can be to thicken the fabric and prevent the sewing from shifting. On the other hand, the hem and other piping areas are cut with diagonal threads. If there is no welting to fix it, it will easily deform during the production process. If the aesthetic problem of exposed molding is considered, paste can be used instead in obvious areas. Click to view the original image
Turn the combined strip over to face the front of the cheongsam, align the edges with each other for sewing
Be careful when sewing:
1. Adjust the needle size of the sewing machine to be slightly larger and the thread tension to be slightly looser. The machine needle should be No. 14.
2. The bottom piece (i.e. the red fabric piece) must be tightened and straightened, and the top piece (i.e. the combined rolling strip) must be slightly loose. Use tweezers to push and sew.
3. Roller sewing needs to be performed at a slow speed, with the foot pedaling once and sewing 4-5 stitches intermittently. Click to view the original picture
Stop the needle 1cm away from the bottom edge and knock down the needle
Next, process the folded corners
Remove the folded corners within 1cm from both ends. The stitching on the combination strip
Arrange the yellow strips
Turn it over to the front, iron the sharp corners with the tip of the iron, and arrange the clothes flat
Put the excess stitching inwards along the seam. Press and iron repeatedly to make it flat.
The front is also pressed, and the final product is as shown in the picture
After the silk cheongsam piping is completed, there are several key points to focus on.
1. After hanging up, check whether the piping and the fabric are even and whether there is any diagonal wire pulling (mainly due to misalignment during sewing).
2. Whether the rolling strips and inserts are consistent in width.
3. Whether the corners are sharp and whether the two sides are symmetrical.
Keywords:
silk cheongsam making silk cheongsam
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