The history of textiles that every textile person should know
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The working people of our country have made great contributions to human material civilization in their struggle to subdue nature, and the fabric industry is also one of them.
The fabric cultural relics discovered by Chinese archaeologists are good witnesses to the civilized history of the diligent and brave Chinese nation. For example, as early as 50,000 years ago, the cave people in the top of the mountain had used bone needles to lead threads and sewed animal skin clothing to resist the severe cold; and as the earliest unearthed Gebu fragments show, our ancestors made Neolithic materials 5,000 to 6,000 years ago. Kudzu fiber has been used to weave kudzu cloth for clothing since ancient times; for example, half-cut silkworm cocoons found at Neolithic sites and silk fabrics 4,700 years ago show that our ancestors were able to use silkworms at that time. Silk was used to make fabrics and reached a considerable level (the warp and weft density were 480/10cm each); in this Neolithic Age, our ancestors also began to use wool fibers to make woolen cloths and blankets for clothing and keeping out the cold. Just the above examples can illustrate: my country’s fabrics have a long history in terms of weaving raw materials or weaving technology.
With the development of society, in the practice of human beings fighting against nature, cloth production technology and product quality have been continuously improved and developed.
Ramie fabrics have been widely used in the Shang and Zhou dynasties of the slave society. In the Book of Songs, there are “The pond at the east gate can be used to retting hemp”, “The pond at the east gate can be used for retting ramie”, “It is pruning and it is pruning” , records of “絺为绤” and so on. From the remnants of rhombus patterns and fretwork silk fabrics on the copper tassels and axes unearthed from the Yin Ruins, it can be seen that jacquard technology existed in the Shang Dynasty.
By the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, warp pattern brocade weaving technology had become widely popular. Among the cultural relics unearthed from Chu tombs during the Warring States Period, there are brocades with dragon and phoenix patterns that are relatively complex.
In Tomb No. 1 of Mawangdui, which dates back more than 2,100 years, velvet brocade fabric (the predecessor of Chinese velvet and velvet) was also found. This kind of fabric was woven with tens of thousands of warp yarns using a jacquard machine. In addition, a piece of plain gauze singlet weighing only 49g was also found in the tomb, with a weight per unit area of only more than 10g. All these show that our country’s weaving technology has reached a relatively high level very early.
In terms of weaving tools, Chu looms were commonly used in the Shang Dynasty (the operator sat on the ground or on a bamboo couch to weave). Pedal looms appeared in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. In the late years of Emperor Zhao of the Western Han Dynasty, weaving tools were greatly improved. The wife of working people Chen Baowan improved the jacquard method, improved the quality of weaving silk, and saved working hours. During the Huangchu period of Emperor Wen of Wei (AD 220-226), Ma Jun further innovated the Hualou jacquard machine and simplified it into twelve harnesses and twelve jacquards, making contributions to silk weaving technology.
By the Tang and Song Dynasties, not only were velvets with gorgeous colors and tough texture innovated, but brocade with satin textures also reached a very high level. During the Qingming Dynasty, the innovator Huang Daopo made great contributions to the improvement and promotion of cotton textile technology, making Songjiang area the largest cotton textile center at that time. The cultural relics unearthed from Dingling Tomb in Beijing show that the clothing during the Ming Shenzong period was exquisitely woven and had many patterns, among which brocade and double-sided velvet were particularly exquisite.
my country’s fabrics, especially silk fabrics, have always enjoyed a high reputation in the world. As early as the fifth and sixth centuries BC, my country’s fabrics were spread to West Asia and Eastern Europe. During the reign of Emperor Qin Shihuang, some people crossed the Yellow Sea eastward to Japan to teach silk weaving techniques. During the reign of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty (119 BC), Zhang Qian made his second mission to the Western Regions, bringing a large amount of silk fabrics with him to promote the exchange of silk weaving technology between my country and foreign countries, reopen the “Silk Road”, and enable the export of Chinese silk fabrics to the West. The export of fabrics reached its climax during the Sui and Tang Dynasties, with many high-quality silk fabrics of different textures such as brocade, damask, and qi being exported, as well as various silk fabrics, cotton and other fabrics with exquisite printing and dyeing finishes. In the 24th year of Jiaqing in the Qing Dynasty (1819 AD), my country exported more than 3.3 million pieces of Nanjing cloth (Songjiang cotton cloth and purple floral cloth from Jiangsu and Zhejiang) from Guangzhou to Europe and the United States.
In the 1840s, my country’s fabric industry began to adopt machine production. However, due to the decadence and decline of the Qing Dynasty and the invasion of the imperialist economy, progress was extremely slow. At that time, although enterprises such as “Gansu Weaving Bureau” and “Shanghai Mechanical Weaving Bureau” were established, they were small in scale and were controlled by feudal bureaucrats. After the Sino-Japanese War of 1895 (1895), imperialist countries such as Britain, the United States, Germany, and Japan successively opened fabric factories in my country. According to statistics, before World War II, foreign capital in the fabric industry exceeded domestic capital by a large amount. It can be seen that my country’s modern machine fabric industry was controlled and monopolized by feudal bureaucracy and imperialism from the beginning. (Title: The history of fabrics that every fabric person should know)
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